Decadence in the Dodecanese

Although dawn comes too early, I am still excited to stick my head up from below deck and see what the world offers today.  I feel the sun’s warmth and admire the soft pink sky.  The marina at Kos is waking up.  People shuffle about, pelicans are making a mess and skinny meowing cats are […]

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Ottoman Turkish Bath

Every 20 feet heavily accented invitations are called out to me as I walk past each shop on the cobblestone pedestrian streets of Kusadasi, a small town on the western coast of Turkey.  “Lady in blue jacket, come in here.  We have the nicest ceramics,” calls one man.  Several others offer “free Wi-Fi for you”.  […]

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Byzantine This, Ottoman That

Thick sour cigarette smoke welcomed me at the Istanbul Ataturk Airport and it was umm….not welcome. Trying to escape the fumes, I ducked behind one offending smoker and instead met an invisible wall of bus and taxi exhaust. After traveling for nearly 24 hours, I simply wanted a fresh salad, a hot shower and a […]

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